The soap: history, chemistry and market

In our daily lives, soap is so common that it almost goes unnoticed, yet its history runs parallel to that of human civilizations. The first traces of soap-like pastes appear as early as in Mesopotamia, where animal fats and ash were mixed to create a substance used for washing wool and fabrics. The Egyptians also knew of preparations made from oils and alkaline substances, used not only for hygiene but also for medical and ritual purposes. The Greeks and Romans, on the other hand, more often relied on abrasive sands and scented oils, while soapy compounds were mostly used in laundries and military settings. It was in the Middle Ages, with the soap workshops of cities like Aleppo, Savona, and Marseille, that soap began to take on a more modern form, based on vegetable oils and increasingly refined production techniques. With the growth of trade came new ingredients, such as palm and coconut oil, which changed both recipes and textures. The Industrial Revolution then brought large-scale production, transforming the soap bar from a precious, handcrafted good into an everyday object, accessible and found in every home—eventually becoming one of the symbols of modern hygiene and one of the great advancements of civilization between the 19th and 20th centuries.

What is soap and how it works

Behind a simple colored bar lies a precise chemical reaction: saponification. Oils and fats, of animal or vegetable origin, are made to react with a strong base, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. From this reaction come the salts of fatty acids—that is, the actual soap molecules—and glycerin, often retained for its emollient properties.
These molecules are special because they have a dual nature: one part loves water, the other prefers fats. When soap comes into contact with water, the molecules spontaneously arrange themselves into small spherical structures, the micelles, in which the lipophilic “tails” trap greasy dirt, sebum, and many unwanted residues. The hydrophilic “heads,” facing outward, stay in contact with the water. When we rinse, the micelles are washed away, carrying with them what they have captured: this is why soap doesn’t just perfume or mask odors, but makes the mechanical act of washing truly more effective, improving the removal of dirt and microorganisms from the surface of skin and objects.

The same principle applies to liquid soap and many modern detergents, which are often not “soaps” in the strict sense, but mixtures of surfactants dissolved in water, thickened and enriched with fragrances and other ingredients. Shower gels, body washes, and shampoos are based precisely on these formulations: they combine various surfactants to be gentle on skin and hair, add moisturizing agents and pH balancers, and include conditioning substances that enhance foaming and ease rinsing. Textures change and gestures evolve, but the core mechanism remains the same: surround the dirt and make it easier to remove through rinsing.

Current market and uses

Today, soap lives a double life: on one hand, it is such a common good that it’s often taken for granted; on the other, it sits at the heart of a dynamic and ever-evolving market. Alongside large-scale industrial production, small artisanal workshops thrive, experimenting with unique oils, refined fragrances, and formulas designed for sensitive skin. The classic bar of soap remains central, especially when it comes to low environmental impact products, thanks to reduced packaging and higher concentration compared to liquid detergents. At the same time, store shelves and bathrooms have filled with liquid soaps, foams, gels, and specific cleansers for every part of the body and every need, from home use to professional settings. Soap finds its place in hospitals as an ally of good hygiene practices, is studied in dermatology departments, becomes the focus of public health campaigns, and even turns into an act of personal care, through pleasant textures and daily rituals. In this balance between function, innovation, and environmental awareness, a simple bar of soap continues to tell us much about how we live and how we care for ourselves.