Ricotta & Co.: dairy specialties made from whey

For those who don’t already know, it always comes as a surprise: ricotta is a child of recycling — or of circularity, as we would say today. It is rooted in an ancient principle, born of a farming tradition that sought to waste nothing and turn leftovers into something valuable. From whey — the liquid that remains after cheese is made — comes a soft, nutritious, and light dairy product that has enriched Mediterranean kitchens, and many others, for centuries.

Ricotta: a cheese that’s not a cheese

Technically speaking, ricotta is not a true cheese. In cheese making, the transformation occurs by coagulating casein — the main protein in milk — through the addition of rennet or acidifying agents. This process produces a solid mass, which is then processed and, depending on the case, either aged or consumed fresh.
But once the cheese has formed, the remaining liquid — whey — still holds value: it contains a variety of nutrients, including whey proteins (such as albumin and lactalbumin), lactose, mineral salts, and water-soluble vitamins. Ricotta is made from that.

The whey is reheated, often to temperatures between 85 and 90 °C, and then acidified. This acidification can occur naturally, with the addition of lactic acid bacteria, or through substances like vinegar, lemon juice, or citric acid. With heat and acidity, the remaining proteins coagulate and slowly rise to the surface, forming small white flakes.
By gently collecting and draining them, one obtains a soft, fragrant, and milky mass: ricotta.

This technique can be applied to different types of milk. The most common is cow’s milk ricotta, but in many areas of Italy and the Mediterranean, sheep, goat, or buffalo milk is also used.
Each type of milk provides a different structure, flavor profile, and yield: sheep’s milk ricotta, for example, is tastier and firmer; buffalo’s milk ricotta is sweeter and creamier; and goat’s milk ricotta is lighter in color and more aromatic.

 

A tradition rooted in the Mediterranean (but not only)

The spread of whey-based dairy products is particularly tied to Mediterranean countries, for reasons that are both historical and climatic. In these regions, the warm climate made it difficult to preserve raw milk, requiring rapid processing — either into fresh products or ones to be consumed shortly after. At the same time, rural economies were based on a circular model: nothing was wasted, and every by-product was repurposed. Thus, whey was recovered and reprocessed to obtain a dairy product that fully entered daily culinary use.

In Italy, ricotta exists in many variations. In Sardinia, dense, full-bodied sheep’s milk ricotta is produced, perfect for smoking or salting. In Campania, buffalo milk ricotta is so sweet and creamy that it has become the preferred ingredient for many local pastry artisans. In Sicily, fresh ricotta is the beating heart of pastry making: used in cannoli, cassata, and also in many filled pasta dishes. There is also salted ricotta, widespread in many southern regions: it is dried, salted and aged until it becomes firm and grateable. In Puglia, strong ricotta exists — a fermented product with a pungent, spicy flavor, used to season or add character to bold-flavored dishes.

But beyond Italy, many other Mediterranean countries have developed similar products. In Serbia and Albania, for example, urda is produced — a white cream obtained from sheep’s or goat’s milk whey. Its consistency resembles ricotta, but it has a more lactic flavor, sometimes slightly smoked. It’s eaten with rustic bread or used to fill traditional dishes. In Greece, two popular variants exist: myzithra, often fresh and mildly sweet, and anthotyros, drier and occasionally aged. Both are used in savory and sweet dishes, and represent a continuity with the Greek tradition of honoring even the noble remnants of milk. In Turkey, lor peyniri is a whey-based dairy made from cow’s milk, often seasoned with herbs or spices. It is used to fill flatbreads, served for traditional breakfast, or used as an ingredient in sweets. Moving towards Central Europe, in Switzerland we find ziger, a whey-based product that is often spiced and used in rustic Alpine dishes, or consumed as is. It is a dairy food with a long tradition, often associated with pastoral and monastic culture.

Outside Europe, there are also similar products. In Mexico and Central America, requesón is prepared — a soft, neutral cream used for stuffing, desserts, or savory pies. In India, chenna, obtained from acid-curdled milk, closely resembles fresh ricotta, while paneer, its pressed version, is firm and suited for cooking. In the Middle East and North Africa, finally, there are no shortages of similar dairy products, often made from goat’s milk, flavored with spices and preserved in brine.

Delicate, valuable, endlessly versatile

Whey-based dairy products share some fundamental characteristics: they have a low fat content, a high protein profile, a mild flavor, sometimes slightly tangy, and a variable texture — ranging from creamy to firm, from grainy to spreadable. They are easily digestible, rich in calcium, gluten-free, and suitable for light, balanced diets. But precisely because of their fragile structure, they require careful processing and appropriate packaging. They are sensitive to heat and oxygen, and their shelf life is limited, which is why they are often consumed locally or require precise technological solutions for preservation and transport.

In the kitchen, their uses are nearly endless. They are used to prepare desserts — cakes, cheesecakes, cannoli, tarts — but also savory dishes: frittatas, timbales, ravioli, stuffed pasta, focaccia. In many cultures, they are consumed simply fresh, with a drizzle of oil, with herbs, or with honey and fruit. They are perfect as a neutral base on which to build flavors, but also capable of standing alone as the star of the dish. Some chefs reinterpret them in a gastronomic key, including them in refined menus that enhance their simple yet profound identity.

The packaging of these products requires flexible, precise machinery, capable of dosing with care and respect.
Each dairy product has its own density, behavior, and delicacy: dosing it properly means preserving its organoleptic qualities, reducing waste, and ensuring safety and shelf life.