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Nails on Alert: Why the EU Is Banning TPO and DMTA Starting September 1, 2025 (and What to Do Now)

As of September 1, 2025, the European Union will prohibit the use, sale, and placing on the market of nail products — including gels, semi-permanent polishes, and similar formulations — containing TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide) and DMTA (Dimethyltolylamine / N,N-dimethyl-p-toluidine).

Why? Both compounds have been classified as CMR substances (carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction) under the newly updated EU Cosmetics Regulation (EU Regulation 2025/877, amending Annex II). The measure is strict: there will be no transitional period (no sell-through) — even already purchased and open products cannot legally be used in professional settings after that date.

For nail professionals and consumers alike, this is more than just a regulatory change. It’s about health, responsibility, and transparency.

Why TPO and DMTA Are Banned — and What Makes Them Harmful

TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide)
TPO is a photoinitiator. When exposed to UV or LED light, it initiates the polymerization reaction that cures gels and polishes. It has long been used for its quick curing time, high gloss, and reliable performance in white shades. However, recent toxicological studies have led to its reclassification as a CMR Category 1B substance, with suspected reproductive toxicity. According to Article 15 of the Cosmetics Regulation, substances classified as CMR 1A or 1B are automatically banned in cosmetics, unless an exemption is granted — which was not requested for TPO.

DMTA (or its variant DMPT)
This molecule is commonly used as an activator or co-monomer in gel adhesion systems, improving bonding and durability. DMTA is also now banned due to its reproductive toxicity classification. The new regulation applies not only to new products but also to those already in use. Even an open bottle cannot legally be used after September 1, 2025.

In short, TPO and DMTA were selected for technical convenience — not malice. But current scientific understanding and EU legislation no longer allow that trade-off.

What Ingredients (and Products) Are Now Considered Safe

Alternative photoinitiators
TPO-L (a modified derivative of TPO) is already in use by some brands. It is not classified as CMR and may be used in compliant gel products. Other viable alternatives include BAPO, CQ (camphorquinone), and hybrid/combined systems used in next-generation formulations that aim to balance reactivity, longevity, and safety.

Label Reading & INCI Checklist
When selecting gels or polishes:
– Read the INCI list (ingredient label): if you see “Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide” or “N,N-dimethyl-p-toluidine / DMTA / DMPT”, the product is non-compliant
– Prefer formulas marked “TPO-free”, or with tags like “5-free / 7-free / 10-free” (indicating multiple controversial substances have been excluded)
– Ensure the manufacturer provides a compliance statement with EU Regulation 2025/877
– Check for CI codes (colorants) and the Responsible Person’s name on the label — these are mandatory elements for cosmetics in the EU

Many manufacturers anticipated the regulation and released compliant product lines well before 2025, reducing the impact on salons.

What to Do with “Banned” Products Already Purchased

Many professionals will have leftover stock of gels or polishes purchased before September 1, 2025. What’s the correct action?

– Legally, it is prohibited to use, sell, or even make available products containing TPO or DMTA in a professional setting
– Salons should withdraw non-compliant stock from service stations immediately
– Ideally, these should be disposed of as chemical waste, according to local regulations on hazardous materials
– Distributors must cooperate with product recalls in accordance with their obligations as “Responsible Persons” under the Cosmetics Regulation
– Keep proof of purchase, technical data sheets, and supplier communications — they may be requested during inspections
– Request a written declaration of conformity from your supplier confirming the product is free of TPO and DMTA

Transition Challenges and Industry Reactions

The transition is not easy. Many salons and producers had to react quickly.
Some color ranges were only available in TPO-based formulas — removing them meant catalog restructures and temporary discontinuations. To minimize disruption, many brands sped up the development of “TPO-free” formulas well ahead of the regulatory deadline.

Authorities have already seized illegal products containing TPO, confirming strict enforcement of the ban.
Some critics argue that the ban is based on animal testing with unrealistic dosages, and that the EU’s hazard-based approach is overly cautious.

Nevertheless, the industry has responded with innovation — many companies are investing in R&D, lab testing, and safer formulations that comply with the new requirements.

Practical Advice for Professionals and Clients

Here’s what nail professionals and informed clients can do now:

– Inventory audit: review all current products and flag any to be removed
– Contact suppliers: confirm compliance and request written declarations
– Staff training: ensure everyone can read INCI labels and spot banned ingredients
– Customer communication: explain the change clearly and reassure them — you’re switching to safer products
– Verify equipment: newer formulas may require updated curing times or lamp wavelengths
– Dispose responsibly: do not discard banned products in general waste — follow your country’s hazardous waste guidelines

A Conscious Step Toward Safer Beauty

The European Commission’s decision to ban TPO and DMTA is not regulatory hysteria — it stems from a precautionary scientific evaluation of long-term health risks, especially for professionals exposed daily.

For the nail industry, this is a turning point: not a burden, but an opportunity for innovation, transparency, and health-conscious practices.
Switching to compliant products, informing your clients, and preparing in advance is not just about staying operational — it’s about adding value to your work.

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